The hype on hyaluronic acid

As dermatologists, we regularly hear questions from sufferers about substances in magnificence and skincare merchandise. Not too long ago, hyaluronic acid (HA) has been hitting the cabinets in quite a lot of merchandise, from serums and moisturizers to sheet masks, evening lotions, and lip merchandise. So what’s HA? What advantages does it provide? And what are the simplest methods of utilizing this ingredient?

What’s hyaluronic acid?

HA is a humectant — a substance that retains moisture — and it’s able to binding over one thousand occasions its weight in water. This substance is of course discovered in lots of areas of the human physique, together with the pores and skin, eyes, and synovial fluid of the joints. HA utilized in magnificence and skincare merchandise is primarily made by micro organism in a lab by way of a course of known as biofermentation.

As we age, the manufacturing of key substances within the pores and skin, together with hyaluronic acid (together with collagen and elastin) decreases. Consequently, our pores and skin loses quantity, hydration, and plumpness.

Lotions, potions, and injectable HA

Many skincare merchandise containing HA declare to extend hydration inside the pores and skin. However is that this true? The reply requires a better take a look at the kind of HA within the product. HA is available in totally different molecular sizes. Bigger HA molecules, regardless of being the most effective at binding water and providing hydration, can not penetrate into the pores and skin. When utilized topically (to the pores and skin), these molecules sit on high of the pores and skin, providing hydration solely on the very floor. Smaller HA molecules, which bind much less water than bigger HA molecules, can penetrate deeper into the pores and skin (although solely into the dermis, the topmost layer of pores and skin). For optimum floor hydration, search for a product that accommodates HA molecules in quite a lot of sizes.

HA can be utilized in dermal fillers, a lot of that are composed of HA in an injectable gel kind. HA fillers add quantity by bodily filling the world the place they’re positioned, in addition to by drawing water to reinforce the filling impact. HA fillers can be utilized to deal with a mess of beauty issues, together with lifting the cheeks, softening deeper folds and creases across the mouth and chin, enhancing the look of sunken, darkish, undereye circles, hydrating and enhancing the lips, and rejuvenating the arms and earlobes.

HA hope or hype?

So is topical HA definitely worth the hype? First, let’s set up that topical HA won’t ever be as efficient as an injectable HA filler for changing misplaced quantity, regardless that some topical HA merchandise are misleadingly marketed as topical “fillers.” Topical HA is a superb moisturizer. Nonetheless, if the aim is to enhance quantity loss and laxity of the pores and skin that naturally happens with growing older, injectable HA, quite than topical HA, is the popular therapy methodology.

Topical HA has many optimistic attributes: it’s typically nicely tolerated; it doesn’t often trigger allergic reactions or irritate delicate pores and skin; and it’s secure to make use of on the pores and skin throughout being pregnant and whereas breastfeeding.

For people with dry pores and skin, or for individuals who crave a extra dewy, moisturized really feel to their pores and skin throughout the cooler months, a serum or moisturizer containing HA is usually a nice selection. However understand that topical HA will present hydration on a floor stage, not deep inside the pores and skin.

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